Pages

Egypt (Giza, Darshur, Saqqara, Memphis) - November 2014

We arrived in Cairo at midnight. Got our visa, went through the custom, and the driver is already waiting outside to take us to the hostel. First impression of Cairo – this looks like China, or rather my hometown back in the 90s. Dusty, chaotic, mysterious.

At 1am, we made it to our hostel, and met up with our friend Florian. Since 2011, our last backpacking trip to Middle East, we have really missed the backpacking culture. It is too easy these days to travel by private tours, stay in 5 star hotels and overpay for every service you get. So for this trip, we decided to go back to our roots – that means backpacking style.

The hostel is in on the 7th floor of an 1874 building. It’s got a nice terrace, root top area, but no towels in the room. We had to borrow pillow cases from the front desk instead.

After some late night snack and catching up with our friend, and some friendly fellow backpackers, we went to sleep.

The next morning, we woke up early to go to the Giza pyramids. The pyramids is about 20 kilometers outside of Cairo. Our driver took us directly to one of those camel ride tours places. After some haggling (which involves the tour operator pretending to be mad at us), we agreed on a price, and set for our pyramid tour.

The first challenge is to get on to the camel. It is quite funny when you get on the camel and wait for it to stand up. These beasts are huge. When it suddenly stands up, you go from ground level to be on top of the world. And when the camel moves, you cannot help but move your hips with it. It feels like you are dancing with your hips.

We walked along some sand dune and got a very nice panoramic view of the three pyramids (Khufu, Khafre, Menkaure). Together with the smaller pyramids for the Queens. The view is trulye impressive. We also manage to get there in a good time, there is almost no other tourists expect us. The guide made us do some funny poses (they are all very good at that).

We walked down the dune and visited each of the pyramids. The Pyramid of Khafre still has part of its original casting cap. It also appears to be the tallest because it stands on a higher plateau.  We made an attempt to climb, but it is much more difficult than I had imagined. The stones are massive at the bottom, some of them are 2/3 of my height. We tried and went up several levels and stopped. Near the Pyramid of Khufu, there are five pits with boats inside. 2 of them are in the Egyptian museum, one on display near the pyramids and two not yet excavated.

We then walked down to visit Sphinx. We saw the small template surrounding it, and then got closer. Unluckily, you cannot walk directly in front of the Sphinx. So we are not able to capture a good view of it with the pyramids. In any case, it appears to be quite well preserved. You can still see the stones layered out one by one along its body and its long tail.

We finished the pyramids tour, and then visited a few more ancient sites nearby.

In the Darshur, we saw the Red pyramids and the Bent pyramids. The Red pyramid is the first pyramid built and it belongs to the father of Khufu, and it is possible to get inside. The entrance of the pyramid is in the middle of its north side (all pyramid entrances open that way). You have to climb quite high to get there. Once you are there, you need to bend down and go through a 60 meters long tunnel going down to the very bottom of the pyramids. It is quite challenging to go through the tunnel, especially since you have to bend your knees the entire way. Once inside, you will see two linked chambers; those are the hollow part of the pyramids where the coffins and sacrifices were stored. I had initially thought pyramids are just a bunch big stones piled together to make a pyramid shape. But once inside of it, I truly appreciated the engineering / architectural beauty of this. You can clearly see in those chambers that each stone is cut and arranged very precisely to give you the shape of the chamber, and each chamber stretch so tall. In the last chamber, there is a stairs you can walk up which leads to a third chamber. The bottom of that chamber is at the ceiling level of the previous two chambers. I’m quite curious how it is designed and why it has been done that way.

After climbing back and exiting the red pyramids, you can really feel the two legs are shaking very hard. From there, we made a quick tour to the bent pyramids. It has an interesting shape as it is not straight up but the angel of the top portion flattens out a little bit. We cannot get too close to the pyramids so we took some pictures and left.

We then moved to Saqqara and stopped by the step pyramids, which is the oldest pyramids-like structure. We didn’t get too close since the ticket price is too high. We then went to Memphis to see the open air museum. In the museum you will see a massive piece of status of Ramses II (apparently the biggest). It seems the entire statue was carved out from one piece of stone. To get a good view, you have to go to the second floor of the building.

The open air museum is quite small. We walked around and saw an older version of the Sphinx, and many other statues of Ramses.

We stopped a restaurant and had a lunch, very good food by the way, and afterwards we went back to the sand dunes near Giza to see the sunset near the pyramids.

We took a horse cart this time, and moved on to the top of the sand dune. It is a pity because it is cloudy that day, and the sun is already half set. We are not able to see much, but the view of the three pyramids in the far side, and red sky on the other is still very nice. Not so far away there is a big riding school nearby, many people are riding horses. It feels like a big ski resort, but you move around on horses instead of snowboards. I can appreciate why people would ride horses in the sand dune. The feeling must remind you of your nomadic ancestry.

We were tired after the sunset tour and passed out in the car.


0 comments:

Post a Comment